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Hyaluronic Acid

Our latest go-to ingredient is one you’ve most likely heard of. With the power to hydrate, strengthen and heal, let us introduce you to our latest super hero: hyaluronic acid. An indispensable element in skin care today, hyaluronic acid is a common ingredient in products such as face creams, moisturisers, and hydrating serums. Hyaluronic acid has numerous benefits that we can see visibly, but as more research is done, we are seeing that there is more than meets the eye with this powerful ingredient.

Note: all sk.in products contain hyaluronic acid and we have formulated our products using either a hyaluronic acid complex or sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer (Hylasome® EG10).

So, what are the skin benefits of hyaluronic acid?

  1. Penetration of hyaluronic acid is dependent on its molecular size, so by using different weights, moisture is distributed to all the layers of the skin.
  2. Hyaluronic acid is one of the major components in which skin cells and its fibrous constituents such as collagen and elastin are embedded.
  3. It plays a pivotal role in tissue regeneration and repair as studies have shown that the integrity and balance of different skin components become normalised with hyaluronic acid.
  4. Wound healing is regulated through regular use.
  5. Skin changes including fine lines and wrinkles are prevented and treated as it works through the skin.
  6. Hyaluronic acid acts to a certain degree as a free radical scavenger reducing the effects of environmental damage and ageing of the skin.
  7. Anti-inflammatory effects (dependent on the molecular size of the hyaluronic acid).
  8. Maintenance and repair of the skin barrier.
  9. Trans epidermal water loss is reduced.

All sk.in serums contain hyaluronic acid and we have formulated our products using either a hyaluronic acid complex or sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer (Hylasome® EG10).

Some Hyaluronic Acid Benefits Highlighted

Skin Hydration:

One of the main benefits of hyaluronic acid is its hydrating power which is achieved through its ability to bind and hold water molecules. When hyaluronic acid is in a solution form (includes serums such as sk.in marvel, gloss, flash and bounce), the hyaluronic acid molecule looks like a coiled sponge that holds 1000 times its weight in water. This unique feature allows it to not only provide skin tissue with consistent moisturisation, but it also maintains the space between skin cells.

This vital function or ability of hyaluronic acid helps to:

  1. Plump up skin + reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  2. Increase softness and elasticity of the skin.

Pro- vs. Anti- Inflammatory:

There is some concern that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is pro-inflammatory. This is a major finding as ultimately this leads to preventing wound healing and even increasing damage to skin cells.

Studies have shown that topical products should contain only low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (around 50 kilodaltons) in order to maximise deep skin penetration (into the dermal layer) while achieving anti-inflammatory effects. In fact, studies have demonstrated that hyaluronic acid of 20 kilodaltons (kDa) or less will activate receptors in the skin, leading to pro-inflammatory or negative effects in the skin.

This is the main reason why our range of sk.in products contain a 50 kDa low weight hyaluronic acid as part of the hyaluronic acid complex. Diving deeper, studies have also demonstrated that there is a major difference in effect when we compare a 50 kDa to a 800 kDa hyaluronic acid molecule. It was found that the 50kDa hyaluronic acid revealed a much more pronounced gene regulatory activity on keratinocytes than it could be observed for 800 kDa hyaluronic acid (120 genes versus 40 genes).

sk.in’s Hyaluronic Acid Complex:

We have introduced a hyaluronic acid complex to our sk.in products which is a combination of low, medium and high molecular weights. When it comes down to the specifics, we have used 50 kDa, 320 kDa and 800 kDa molecular weights to comprise the entire complex. The reason for these different molecular weights is to allow varying absorption and penetration through all the layers of the skin, from epidermal to dermal. This maximises the benefits of the hyaluronic acid through the superficial to the deepest layers of the skin.

sk.in’s Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

The registered trade name of sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is Hylasome® EG10. This ingredient has a number of additional benefits when compared to ‘normal’ hyaluronic acid (not hyaluronic acid complex).

Hylasome® EG10 is a chemically crosslinked hyaluronic acid derived from a non-animal source. Cross linking means that the hyaluronic acid is bound together by other molecules. The reason for this is to prevent or slow down the breakdown of the hyaluronic acid by our enzyme known as hyaluronidase. This allows for a longer effect.

Other advantages include:

  • The ability to form a film on the skin that delivers moisturisation or water to the skin over a period of time.
  • It provides five times the moisturisation of skin when compared to normal hyaluronic acid (not hyaluronic acid complex).
  • Free radical scavenger reducing the effects of environmental damage by up to 40%.

Hylasome® EG10 has a unique non-equilibrium gel structure with gel domains that hold tightly bound water. The material forms a film on the skin and delivers this water over time.

Because of this property, I selected sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer as my hyaluronic acid for sk.in pure. The exfoliating properties of salicylic acid, papaya and pineapple extract work synergistically with the hydrating and free radical scavenger ability of the sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, zinc PCA, and niacinamide.

When it comes to targeting signs of ageing and damage, radical results call for powerful ingredients. Soak in the benefits of a super ingredient like hyaluronic acid to give you plump, hydrated, healthy skin. Feel it working deep within the skin immediately and watch your skin transform for a future of vibrancy. But don’t take our word for it – see the results yourself. Shop products with hyaluronic acid here and add some magic to your skin care regime.

Dr Alek Nikolic

References:

  1. SOFW-Journal | 134 | 11-2008, Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid: Its Effects on Epidermal Gene Expression & Skin Ageing, M. Farwick, P. Lersch, G. Strutz
  2. Termeer C, Benedix F, Sleeman J, Fieber C, Voith U, Ahrens T, Miyake K, Freudenberg M, Galanos C, Simon JC. Oligosaccharides of Hyaluronan activate dendritic cells via tolllike receptor 4. J Exp Med. 2002; 195:99-111
  3. Pivarcsi A, Bodai L, Réthi B, Kenderessy-Szabó A, Koreck A, Széll M, Beer Z, Bata-Csörgoo Z, Magócsi M, Rajnavölgyi E, Dobozy A, Kemény L. Expression and function of Toll-like receptors 2 and 4 in human keratinocytes. Int Immunol. 2003;15:721-30
  4. Kielty CM, Whittaker SP, Grant ME, Shuttleworth CA. Type VI collagen microfibrils: evidence for a structural association with hyaluronan. J Cell Biol. 1992;118:979-90
  5. Baccarani-Contri M, Vincenzi D, Cicchetti F, Mori G, Pasquali-Ronchetti I. Immunocytochemical localization of proteoglycans within normal elastin fibres. Eur J Cell Biol. 1990; 53:305-12
  6. Cleland RL, Wang JL. Ionic polysaccharides. 3. Dilute solution properties of hyaluronic acid fractions. Biopolymers. 1970;9:799-810
  7. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006 Dec;5(4):309-15. Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefits.
  8. Weindl G, Schaller M, Schäfer-Korting M, Korting HC. Hyaluronic acid in the treatment and prevention of skin diseases: molecular biological, pharmaceutical and clinical

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