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Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

An ultimate go-to ingredient for the skin is vitamin A, but the particular ingredient we believe in, and our the main focus, is hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Vitamin A is a superhero ingredient for the skin and has multiple advantageous skin benefits. A number of clinical studies have demonstrated the benefits of using vitamin A topically:

  1. A lightening and breaking down of hyperpigmentation.
  2. Reduction of pore numbers and pore size.
  3. Improving the skin's texture with visible and tactile softening.
  4. Providing a youthful glow.
  5. Increased collagen and elastin production.
  6. A reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.
  7. Acting as an antioxidant.
  8. Reducing sebum production.
  9. Improving acne breakouts and blemishes.
  10. Increasing hydration and a plumping effect of the skin.

There are different formulations of vitamin A used in topical skin care products today, and one of the most common ingredient formulations of vitamin A used in cosmeceuticals is retinol.

Almost all derivatives of vitamin A (such as retinol) require an enzyme conversion process within the skin to be effective. Once converted, retinoic acid binds to the skin’s retinoic acid receptors to bring the benefits and effects that skin care users hope to see. Here’s a quick chemical break down:

Retinol vs. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is the newest member of the superhero vitamin A ingredient family. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an ester of retinoic acid and works similar to tretinoin (or prescription strength Retin–A) but with little to no skin irritation.

Both retinol and hydroxypinacolone retinoate are excellent ingredients for the skin, however there are some significant differences when choosing which to use in your routine.

Retinol needs to be broken down over several steps to be converted into a retinoic acid. The breakdown process can cause skin irritability and produce unwanted side effects such as:

  1. Dermatitis
  2. Itchiness or pruritis
  3. Dry or flaky skin
  4. Sensitivity reactions
  5. Red or inflamed skin
  6. Uncomfortable sensations

One of the significant advantages hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over retinol and other vitamin A derivatives used in active ingredient cosmeceuticals today is that it does not require a conversion to retinoic acid. Once applied to the skin it can bind directly to the receptors allowing a cascade of events to take place which produce the antiaging effects, reduction in pigmentation marks and blemishes, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reducing sebum production, minimising pores and improving skin texture. Furthermore, increased hydration and an improvement in the glow of the skin can also be expected.

The second significant advantage hydroxypinacolone retinoate has over other forms of Vitamin A is ingredient stability. Thermal stress tests have shown that hydroxypinacolone retinoate will remain stable and effective in the skin for up to 15 hours.

These are the major reasons why I chose hydroxypinacolone retinoate as my vitamin A ingredient of choice in sk.in bounce and sk.in flash 1, sk.in flash 2, and sk.in flash 3.

Even though hydroxypinacolone retinoate represents a new generation of retinoids, I firmly believe that it will become the gold standard vitamin A ingredient in skincare products for the future.

see our before and after case studies here

from the doctor you trust

—Dr Alek

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